“I love to surf actually. Both my brothers grew up surfing at the beach, and I’d ride with them. Then, once I got old enough to ride, I got my own board. It was just a way for me to get closer to them and spend time with family. When you’re surfing it’s your whole focus. You don’t have to think about anything else. You don’t have to worry about stuff. It’s relaxing. It’s a way to let loose.
I’ve surfed in Hawaii. It’s crazy! The surf there is a lot more fun I think. The only thing I was worried about it is when you fall off the board or jump off there’s a lot of coral. The sharks never really bothered me, just the coral.”